When it happens
Trongsa Tshechu is a winter tshechu (a festival honouring Guru Rinpoche with sacred masked dances) that runs five days. It falls in December or January, and its Gregorian dates vary from year to year.
The lunar month it follows sits across the end of the Gregorian year. The festival can fall wholly in the second half of December, wholly in the first ten days of January, or across the turn of the year.
Where it happens
The festival is held in the northern courtyard of Trongsa Dzong. The dzong is the largest fortress in Bhutan. It stands on a spur overlooking the gorge of the Mangde Chhu, its many levels sloping down the contours of the hill.
Beyond the courtyard, the dzong holds a watchtower, twenty-five temples dedicated to Tantric deities, a museum and a printing shop. It is still the headquarters of the government of Trongsa district, so the tshechu takes place inside a working seat of government.
Trongsa Dzong also holds Goenpai Drubchen in late autumn and Lhamoi Dromchoe in late winter. You can visit the same courtyard for three different festivals across the year.
History
Trongsa Tshechu is described as one of the oldest festivals in Bhutan.
Trongsa Dzong was the seat of power over central and eastern Bhutan. Its position on the only connecting route between east and west let the Trongsa Penlop (governor) control the whole eastern region.
The dzong was the seat of the Wangchuck dynasty of penlops, who have been Kings of Bhutan since the early twentieth century. All the Kings of Bhutan are first invested as Trongsa Penlop before ascending the Raven Crown throne.
Dances and rituals
The festival culminates in the unfolding of the thongdrel, a huge cloth image of Guru Rinpoche and imagery from the Buddhist pantheon. It is the Guru Tshengye Thongdrel. Guru Tshengye is the name for the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche.
Being there
Trongsa Tshechu is described as a cosier festival than the major tshechus, celebrated as a community occasion by people from across the region.
Trongsa lies on the main highway linking Thimphu and Bumthang. You reach it by road from Thimphu or Paro, over several hours of mountainous terrain.