When it happens
App Chundu Lhasel is a single day, held on the same Gregorian date each year. It formerly followed an auspicious date. At the public’s request to His Holiness the Je Khenpo, it was moved to a fixed date.
The day is set to open at 4:45 am, and the programme usually ends by 2 pm.
Where it happens
The day opens at Lhakhang Karpo (the White Temple) in Haa and moves out to Jangkakha, about 9.6 km from the temple. Jangkakha lies below Chundu Armed Public School and above Gonsakha village. It is Ap Chundu’s own ground, not a monastery courtyard.
History
Ap Chundu is the principal protective deity of Haa, who is believed to protect everyone born in Haa. The stated purpose of the observance is to thank him for helping the people of Haa in a time of battle. The annual offering is an age-old tradition of Haa.
According to tradition, the observance began in the conflict between Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and the Tsang Desi of Tibet. A Tibetan party that had reached Gyensa in Haa is said to have seen fire and heard noises at Jangkakha, fallen into the river below Gyensa and been defeated. The people of Haa are said to have then established the observance in the deity’s honour.
The observance was designated intangible cultural heritage in 2022. Yaks are reported to have been sacrificed during the festival until 2013. Because killing is a sin in Buddhism, Ap Chundu’s permission to stop was reportedly sought that year through dice divination with an astrologer, and his affirmation obtained.
Rituals
The rites at Lhakhang Karpo include one for the Chip (Ap Chundu’s riding horse). A gunshot follows, and the deity is symbolically received.
A procession then carries on to Jangkakha, with around eight to ten stops for offerings. At the ground come prayers, performances, the raising of Ap Chundu’s flag, dances by the district dancers, and lunch.
The offering to Ap Chundu is practised by the people of Haa and Paro. Dances are also performed by the people of Yangthang, in their own dress, lyrics and steps. The performers are men only, locally called pazaap or pazerpa. The knowledge, rules and lyrics pass on by word of mouth. Village boys learn the steps and the lyrics by taking part, and begin formally at around seventeen.
Being there
The road from Paro to Haa crosses Chelela, a pass at about 3,810 m, and weather and road conditions affect the crossing. If you are based in Paro, check the full road journey, the festival’s start time and your return with your guide.
App Chundu Lhasel is a local, devotional gathering in one of Bhutan’s smallest districts, at about 1,706 square kilometres and around 12,000 residents. Attendance is estimated at 200–500 people.